‘No road, no water, no cattle, no land'GRAEME SMITH
From Saturday's Globe and Mail, 25 March, 2006
Suwan, Pakistan — One morning last week, in the grey hours before dawn, Abdul Rahman crawled out of his shelter in the ruined village of Suwan.
A snow leopard's growl made him stop abruptly. He saw the big cat circling around a cattle shed a few metres away, swishing its tail and making a hungry rumbling sound in its throat.
The snow leopard is a rare animal here in the mountains of northern Pakistan, and the villagers tell terrible stories about the white killers with flashing eyes that can leap across great chasms.
Mr. Rahman, 55, said he felt no fear. He had already endured the most dangerous winter of his life, after the Oct. 8 earthquake that turned his home into a pile of stone and mud. He hungered and shivered on this ledge overlooking the Kaghan Valley, refusing to abandon his small farm, and he did not give an inch to the man-sized predator. He screamed like an angry leopard, waved his arms, and the cat disappeared into the mist.
“His den probably collapsed, so he was looking for a home, like everybody else in the valley,” Mr. Rahman said. “I showed him somebody still lives here.”
When a Globe and Mail reporter wandered into Suwan last October in the days after the devastating quake, he was the first outsider to reach the village. Residents, fresh from burying their dead, pondered a grim future as winter loomed. Six months later, the writer returned to the same village to uncover a tale of survival, but came away with lingering questions about what the future holds for Suwan and its residents.
The earthquake destroyed almost every structure, killed 24 of the 700 residents, washed away their stored food, and took most of the livestock. About 65 of the 90 families that lived on this rocky outcrop, two days' drive north of Islamabad, joined the human tide that poured down from the mountains in the weeks after the earthquake.
They encountered a massive aid operation that airlifted more than 30,000 tonnes of food, medicine, tents, blankets, building supplies, and other emergency goods into the stricken area. Relief workers welcomed hundreds of thousands of people into temporary camps, and soon the valleys were littered with tents and tarpaulins. But for people raised in the relative isolation of Suwan, the crowded, fetid camps with their modern influences were an assault.
Now, as spring returns to northern Pakistan, many relief organizations are declaring victory. A mild winter and generous donations helped nearly all the homeless people to survive the winter. The U.S. military will finish its relief operations next week, and Canada pulled its troops out months ago. Pakistan's government has ordered the tent cities closed by March 31, instructing people to go back to their villages, rebuild their homes and start planting this year's crop.
In some places, the reconstruction has already started. The flatlands and foothills glitter as villagers replace their mud roofs with metal sheeting. The Kaghan Valley echoes with the bang of hammers and the scream of electric saws.
But there's a clearly visible line that divides the valley, where the shiny rooftops stop and the mud rubble begins. This is the spot where the road ends, usually buried under landslides or collapsed down a cliff. About 70 per cent of the valley's population lacks road access to return to their villages, and those people aren't enjoying the same springtime optimism felt elsewhere in the disaster zone.
Many have lingered in the relief camps. If evicted, they will probably be forced to set up unofficial camps and shantytowns near major roads.
“How will we survive when we're told to leave the camps?” said Farooq Shah, 57, who has spent the winter sheltered in one of the relief camps. “We have no road, no water, no cattle, no land. Where will we go?”
In theory, villagers from places such as Suwan could hike back to their homes. It's only four kilometres in a straight line from Suwan to the nearest open road. But the terrain is rough, and getting worse; landslides are a daily event. Villagers will need to haul bags of concrete, boards, metal sheeting and other construction materials into the village so they can remake their houses, cattle barns and watermills.
The task is nearly impossible without a road: The path stretches over two mountain ridges, with ledges sometimes only the width of a boot separating a traveller from a chasm hundreds of metres deep. The climb often goes straight up, making it a six-hour trek each way.
After the effort of the trip, villagers who go home might be forgiven for feeling disappointed when they arrive. Nearly all the houses in Suwan are still broken heaps. Stalks of corn, never harvested, are snapped and rotting in the fields. Mouldy sheaves of grass remain bundled on the hillsides where villagers gathered them up as animal fodder and never collected them after their cattle died in the quake. Muddy shoes, clothes and other detritus show how little the villagers carried over the mountains when the majority of them abandoned this place.
Normally, this is the season for plowing the fertile ledges and planting corn. But those terraced fields, hacked into the mountain over centuries, are now cracked, sloped, or washed away. About a quarter of this village's farmland, perhaps 300 acres, has fallen into the valley.
In Suwan, and hundreds of similar villages in this devastated region, one of the few hints of spring are the pink blossoms on the cherry trees.
After the earthquake, it took 22 days for the villagers of Suwan to decide whether to leave for the winter. For some, the earthquake and its profound destruction shook their faith in the whole idea of having a village in such a remote location, at 2,000 metres above sea level. Others interpreted it as a test of their Muslim faith, and vowed to stay and rebuild.
Eventually, one or two at a time, most of Suwan's families made the long walk to safety. Many of them hiked about 30 kilometres south to Balakot, a hard two-day scramble, then caught rides to the city of Mansehra. They stayed with relatives, rented rooms, or joined the overcrowded tent cities. So many of the villagers settled in one neighbourhood on the outskirts of the city that the place became known as “little Suwan.”
None of the villagers found the accommodations comfortable. Sabir Shah, one of the wealthiest landowners in Suwan, could afford only two rooms behind a cattle shed for his 15 family members. Village women normally avoid showing their faces to strangers, even when they're wearing veils, so the idea of the common latrines in the camps made the villagers' eyes widen with horror.
But Mr. Shah couldn't shelter his family from the culture of the city. They had never experienced television, video games, mobile phones, or even electricity that comes from sockets instead of batteries. But since the Shah family took refuge in the city, his three boys, whose ages are 5 to 13 years, have started visiting neighbours' houses to watch cartoons, rock videos, and other cable-television fare.
Life may have been disconcerting in the city, but it was drudgery on the mountain. Those who remained were mostly the strongest men, capable of making the six-hour hike up to eight times a week, ferrying sacks of flour, bags of rice, tins of cooking oil, and heavy canvas tents from the nearby town of Paras to their village.
“It was freezing cold, and incredibly hard, but we were lucky,” said Feroze Shah, 50, one of those who stayed. Food and shelter were scarce, but just enough aid was delivered to keep everybody alive. The villagers were also helped by the slow onset of winter, which gave the villagers time to build shelters for themselves and their cattle.
One day in January, a group of young men realized that the heavens were going to spare their village. They had enough food stocked to relax a little, the weather wasn't so bad, and they celebrated in a typically Pakistani fashion: They played cricket. When snow buried their cricket field, the young men built snowmen, had snowball fights, and dug old X-ray records from medical files so they could sit on the slippery plastic sheets and slide down the mountain.
“The mourning was finished,” said Mohammed Khursheed, 25. “We came back to life.”
Bringing the village itself back to life won't be so easy. Suwan needs somebody to invest about $18,000 to open the road again, and about 30,000 feet of water pipe to tap into a mountain spring. Those requirements might seem modest, but almost every other hamlet dotting northern Pakistan is asking for the same things.
“We have big concerns about the lack of potable water and road access,” said Fazal Mahmood, a reconstruction co-ordinator for the Al-Khidmat Foundation. His organization is sponsored by Jamiat-e-Islami, a leading Islamist opposition group.
“Sending people back to these villages too quickly, without these basics in place, the government is creating a disastrous situation all over again,” Mr. Mahmood said.
Other aid workers are more optimistic. Shakeel Ahmed, regional manager for the Sarhad Rural Support Program, which gets funding from the World Bank, USAID, CIDA, and other Western sources, said many of the villagers have already left the camps and those who remain past the March 31 deadline will probably be collected into two large tent cities.
The more important questions are long-term issues, Mr. Ahmed said, such as the need to encourage villagers to lay sturdy foundations for their buildings so they won't collapse as easily, and, to reduce the threat of landslides, discouraging them from cutting trees.
Mr. Shah says he is confident they will go back and rebuild their homes. He illustrated the reason with two hunting stories. Once, he said, he shot a mountain lion and chased it along a river, following the trail of blood. The cat jumped in the river, leaving the trail cold and allowing it to escape.
On another occasion, just before harvest time, Mr. Shah heard a black bear munching on ripened corn in a field at night. He fired at the noise and heard a loud howl. Again, the animal escaped, although he found it near a stream the next morning.
Mr. Shah wasn't armed when he stumbled across the bear again, but he killed the wounded animal by hurling heavy rocks at its head. When the bear finally collapsed, Mr. Shah says, he noticed medicinal herbs stuck in the wound where his bullet had pierced the night before, as if the bear had been trying to treat its own injury.
“The animals know how to find what they needed in the mountains,” Mr. Shah said. “People do the same thing.”